The first time I traveled through England was before London put Paris on notice by racking up its own Michelin stars, before the glare of the food world's klieg lights hit the Brits, and other such Ramsayfications. Back then, the only halfway decent fare you could find was in Indian restaurants, Middle Eastern establishments and a few very special pubs. Those pubs popped into mind when I walked into Press 626 Café and Wine Bar.

First there's the look. A gray townhouse in villagey Ghent with a curved, double-front staircase and evocative picture windows, its exterior could pass for a Dickens set piece. Inside, tables –– high and standard height –– seat about 30 people throughout two rooms, but the bar consumes much of the casual, attractive space; a neighborly conviviality flows from it. And the reasonably-priced menu (no dish over $20) lists the kind of nurturing food that can cozy you up on a wintry day. All very pub-like.

Back in the days (what, like four months ago?) when the tall, charming, multi-storied white house on the corner of Olney Street and Colley Avenue donned the moniker "The Winehouse," patrons called from far and wide to sample its elegant and straightforward fare and to soak up the fantastic wine selection. Many, like myself, were both shocked and saddened when the "we're moving!" signs were posted in the windows, signaling the end to the era of The Winehouse, (at least in its original house) with which many Norfolk residents had always been so lovingly familiar. Not to worry though, because of its consistent popularity and apparent lack of space, Ghent's beloved Winehouse simply moved its operation down the street a couple three blocks to a much roomier spot on Colley Avenue. The restaurant and upscale watering hole still maintains its former menu items, wine selection, and friendly bartenders – it just outgrew its old home. So, with this transition came the obvious question: what the heck was going to go in the beautiful old home in which the Winehouse used to reside? Community confusion and apprehensions have since been readily allayed with the recent launch of the new restaurant, Press 626. On my first visit, I walked into this establishment with the preconceived notion that it would undoubtedly fall short of its predecessor, but I have to say, it far surpassed my hesitant expectations.